And I’ll show you some garden box variations you can assemble with these different sizes at the end of this build section.Īfter the base is ripped and trimmed to the final length, I’ll lay out the end cuts and inset location. I’m making three different lengths of forms this time. Framing lumber comes with a small rounded corner and I want to remove these. I rip both edges on the table saw to give me a square corner on both sides. Circular saw with a guide is an option for ripping lumber without a table saw 2×10 is ripped on table sawĪ guide and a circular saw will also work. To make the new forms the same inside dimensions as the previous plywood versions, I rip the 2×10 down to 8″ wide. Circular saw an square can be used instead of miter saw Cutting a 2×10 to lengthīut, a square and circular saw will work just as well. I start by cutting a 2×10 to length, then ripping it to width on my table saw. When filled with concrete half way, a stiff wire mesh is laid in for additional strength. The pipes are plastic electrical conduit with galvanized wire wrapped around them for reinforcement. The ends and sides have a peg made from wooden dowels to hold a pipe in place. The base is made from a 2×10 with a beveled 1×4 as an inset, the ends and sides are made from a 2×6. The base, two identical ends, and two identical sides. So please check those out.Ĭoncrete Garden Box Sides – the Build The Parts I have plans available for download and I also have a list of all the tools I use for each project. Concrete Garden Box Panels Stacked DIY concrete raised beds. These panels link together to create long lasting, rot proof concrete garden boxes. ![]() ![]() So here’s the new form design I came up with. You don’t need a lot of tools to make these forms and I’ll show some alternatives as I build them.Īs before, I have a full set of plans available for download. I like it as its non-toxic and won’t go rancid like vegetable oil. It’s cheaper, faster, and easier to apply. Instead of multiple coats of polyurethane, I’m using Food Grade Mineral oil to coat the forms. There’s fewer parts, and I’ve simplified the finishing. The NEW form design uses standard framing lumber instead of plywood. My original plywood forms work very well so, if you’re already building yours that way then keep at it. I still want to cast the concrete panels in the same size and shape so the new ones would connect and fit to the original ones. So I decided to go back and look at my original design to see if I could simplify and improve upon it. Many commented that the forms were too complicated to build. Thank you for helping to support my content this way. (Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I’m not a professional form builder, so I’m sure there’s other ways to cast these panels, but this is what works for me. the concrete panels are pinned together with rebar I just wanted them to be reusable and for them to work. ![]() I was casting these for myself so at the time I wasn’t concerned that the forms be simple. I first made these plywood forms and cast panels about 8 years ago, long before I planned a YouTube Channel. I’ll address some of the most common comments and questions I received from that first video in the Q & A section below. So, thank you for your support and contribution! I got a lot of comments and suggestions from the first video and I was overwhelmed by the positive reaction it received. ![]() If you haven’t watched my first video then please have a look to see my original plywood form design. These reinforced concrete panels link together to create long lasting, rot-proof garden boxes. There was a ton of interest in that video, so I wanted to shoot a sequel, AND find a faster, easier, and cheaper way to build the forms and cast the panels. A year has passed so I think it’s time to see what improvements I can make. This is a follow-up to my blog post and video on casting your own concrete garden box panels.
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